I can’t quite remember the first thing that hit me as we took our first steps on the great white crust. It must have been the cold wind on my face, a bit salty, but reassuringly clean and refreshing. Or was it the blinding white surface stretching endlessly over the horizon? It is all too hazy now, a bit blurry to remember. I guess thats what 12,000 feet above sea level and the lack of oxygen does to your brain.